SKELLIG ISLANDS

The Skellig Islands are two craggy remote islands almost 12 km west of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, and they provide the most outstanding views in nature that I have ever seen. Noble prize-winning author and playwright George Bernard Shaw said it best after he visited in 1910: “both the Skelligs are pinnacled, crocketed, spired, arched, caverned, minareted; and these gothic extravagances are not curiosities of the islands: they are the islands: there is nothing else. The rest of the cathedral may be under the sea for all I know…An incredible, impossible, mad place…I tell you the thing does not belong to any world that you and I have lived and worked in: it is part of our dream world…”

Skellig Michael

The larger of the two islands is Skellig Michael, an island with two peaks that tower hundreds of feet above sea level. The island’s name is derived from the Irish word sceilg, which means, “steep rock” or “crag,” and from the Archangel St. Michael, for whom the island is dedicated. Skellig Michael is known for its Christian monastery founded between the 6th and 8th centuries that was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Hundreds of years ago, it was the Christian monastic belief that closeness with God was best attained in remote and severe settings. And quite secluded it is!! Not only do you have to cross open water in the Atlantic Ocean, but to reach the monastery, one needs to walk up 618 steep uneven winding steps that were carved by monks into the rock face of the island. In addition to its impressively preserved religious settlement (which it is believed that at its largest, consisted of 12 monks and an abbot), Skellig Michael is also known for its huge bird population! Gannets, puffins, razorbills, and more are plentiful here, both in diversity of species but also in the size of the colonies that the island supports.

Little Skellig

If you want to really talk birds, Little Skellig is home to thousands. The smaller of the two Skellig Islands, Little Skellig is inaccessible to humans, as birds rule all here. In fact, the island’s gannet colony ranks high amongst the world’s largest Gannet populations. This island has actually always been inhospitable to people, and one can only admire it from afar.

You can visit the Skellig Islands by boat departing from Portmagee, either on a tour that allows you to get off the boat and explore, or on a tour that circles the islands.

Skellig Michael Landing Tour

To preserve Skellig Michael, there are currently only 15 licensed boats that are allowed to land on the island, and each boat can carry 12 passengers. That means only 180 people per day are permitted to step foot on the island, so if you would like to get off the boat and explore, I highly recommend getting your tickets way in advance. Please remember that you will only be allowed to explore Skellig Michael, as Little Skellig is not open to the public (and has never been a place for humans!) When deciding between the Eco Tour and the Landing Tour, please note that there are no restrooms on Skellig Michael. To get to the monastery of the island, you will have to walk up over 600 steps, so ensure that everyone in your party is physically up for the journey. In addition, there are no food or drinks available for purchase on the island, so bring everything that you need with you. As it is often difficult to reach Skellig Michael (due to the wind, the choppiness of the water, the rain, etc.) it is only possible to land on the island during the summer months, so plan your trip accordingly! It takes a little less than an hour to reach Skellig Michael by boat, and you will have about two and a half hours to discover this spectacular island before you will head back to the mainland.

Skellig Michael Eco Tour

If you do not want to land on Skellig Michael (or if you were unable to get tickets for a Landing Tour), the Eco Tour is a fantastic option! You will leave from Portmagee and reach Skellig Michael after a little less than one hour. Then you will circumnavigate Skellig Michael and Little Skellig, which lasts about 45 minutes. Do not fret, there will be plenty of opportunities for you to take photos! Finally, you will head back to the Portmagee harbor. Please note that the monastery is not very visible from the boat’s vantage point at sea level, so if you are hell bent on seeing the Christian settlement (or maybe you are more familiar with it as Luke Skywalker’s hideaway in Stars Wars: The Last Jedi), I would recommend the Skellig Michael Landing Tour.

Weather

In Ireland, any type of weather at any time is possible. Storms are a frequent cause of tour cancellations, and even if it is a perfectly sunny day, high winds and other sea conditions are also known to stop a trip out to the Skellig Islands. If it is not safe to go out on the water, your excursion will be cancelled. In addition, if you booked a landing tour and the sea/weather conditions on that day do not allow you to get off the boat, you will not be put in a situation to do so. While CJ and I were very fortunate to visit the Skellig Islands, I have had boat tours cancel on me on the east coast of Ireland – once due to rain, and once because it was too windy.

What to bring

If you are fortunate enough to get the green light to go out to the Skellig Islands, wear comfortable shoes and warm layered clothing, as it can get cold out on the water! In addition, it is not a bad idea to wear some kind of waterproof clothing just in case it rains, but also because the waves could spray you. If you are getting off the boat, bring snacks and water, as nothing can be purchased once on Skellig Michael. Lastly, if you are prone to seasickness, stick to a remedy that works for you, and remember that open air is best when you are feeling queasy. Winds were 4 mph when we got out on the water, and even then, the water was ROUGH. I would see the other side of the boat in front of me and then it would vanish because we were rocking from side to side so much.

The Skellig Islands are truly the most spectacular wild pieces of nature that I have had the pleasure of witnessing. I have never felt so in awe of the majesty that is our world. If you have the opportunity to get out there, do not hesitate to do so!

DAY TRIP: DOOLIN

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