9TH ARRONDISSEMENT OF PARIS

Paris is indeed a walkable city, but sometimes the museums or monuments you want to visit are far away from each other or you only have time to stay in one area. If that is the case, the 9th arrondissement – located on the right bank of the Seine – is bursting with offerings. Here are some of my go-to restaurants, shops, and sites that are in this bustling arrondissement!

Pizzeria Iovine’s

This is a pizza option in the 9th arrondissement. Pizzeria Iovine’s allows cheese lovers to get their pizza while you can also enjoy a dairy free one – as noted on the menu! This is perfect for a quick bite as you jump from store to store or theatre to theatre.

Le Potager de Charlotte

At the helm of Le Potager de Charlotte (my favorite vegan restaurant in Paris) are two brothers who have been vegan for several years and did us all a service by opening their restaurant in 2015! While the kitchen strictly uses vegan ingredients, the menu still points out vegan allergens like gluten, peanut, sesame, sulfites, etc., if there are additional ingredients you hope to avoid. The menu is constantly changing to reflect seasonal offerings, and everything is truly delicious. Snag a reservation so you don’t have to wait!

À la Mère de Famille

As the oldest candy shop in Paris, stepping into À la Mère de Famille reveals a tiled floor, dark wood counters, and chocolate in all of its most delicious forms. Now this chocolate house has expanded to multiple locations, but the original location is in the 9th arrondissement, and I must say that the quality of their products has not diminished over the centuries. Do not skimp on the florentines and grignotines! 

Passage Jouffroy & Passage Verdeau

Galerie Vivienne is the first covered arcade that comes to mind when in Paris, but there are other wonderful covered malls like Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau to visit as well! Passage Jouffroy was built in 1836, known for its lovely glass roof and marble floor. Take a stroll through the passage to admire the architecture and the original shop windows, if nothing else! Passage Verdeau was built just 11 years later in 1847, and is a continuation of Passage Jouffroy so you can easily hit both. Comb through unique shops filled with old books, postcards, walking canes, and more.

Galeries Lafayette

Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann is a high-end department store. I have never seen so many different departments and items in one store, and I am confident I could spend the entire day just exploring all of the floors. There is a breathtaking Art Nouveau dome that tops off the building, but if you can tear your eyes away from the gorgeous glass structure, head to the 8th floor to enjoy wonderful views of the city from the store’s terrasse! This is free to experience, and no tickets are required.

Printemps

Printemps (French for “springtime”) is another department store in the neighborhood, offering shoppers a wealth of luxury goods, homeware, fashion, and a huge department dedicated to beauty. Printemps actually has three stores on Boulevard Haussmann if that gives you an indication of how big Printemps is!!

Palais Garnier

The Palais Garnier is a Paris opera house, which many people know as the backdrop for the book and later turned musical, The Phantom of the Opera. You can see a performance in this historical monument, take a guided tour, or walk around yourself and view the gorgeous ornate ceilings of the grand foyer, the beautifully carved staircases, or stand on the balcony and people watch from above. I have been on guided tours in both English and French at the Opéra Garnier, as well as enjoyed the lighthearted comic opera Don Pasquale, and each visit was magical!

Musée National Gustave Moreau

Gustave Moreau’s work in the 19th century normally depicted moments from biblical or mythological stories, calling on the otherworldly. He aimed not to invoke thought, but dreams. Even now his legacy lives on, for his will stipulated that his house with all of its contents: paintings, drawings, cartoons, etc. all go to the State. This means that when you enter the museum, tucked away on an unassuming street in the 9th arrondissement, know that you are stepping into the house of Gustave Moreau himself. If you head to the second floor, you will be enamored by the grand staircase and the height of the room, as Moreau requested that this studio space be specifically designed to accommodate the large format of his paintings. This museum is not nearly as crowded as the likes of the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay, which is a huge plus in my book.

Musée du Parfum

Musée du Parfum is small but truly delightful. Admission to the museum is free, and you do not need to book anything in advance. Once you visit the museum reception, you will be assigned a guided tour (and if there is no guide available, you will be allowed to walk the museum on your own!) The guided tour ends in the Fragonard store (as the museum is owned by Fragonard, a perfume maker based in Grasse since 1926) where you will be able to smell some of Fragonard’s perfumes and make purchases! I also took an hour and a half perfume making class with Fragonard, which I would highly recommend! Note that the 90m class is in French, though a mini version is offered in English, Spanish, and Chinese.

Musée de la Vie Romantique

This museum is charming but incredibly small. The size of the museum makes sense, as it was not originally intended as a museum but actually a residence and studio of painter Ary Scheffer. During Scheffer’s (and subsequently his daughter’s) tenure at the house, the home became a literary and cultural salon. Every week the likes of Eugène Delacroix, George Sand, and Charles Dickens congregated for collective creativity and conviviality. I’d say the tradition is being kept alive, as people visit the museum to see works from the Romantic movement of the 19th century and to connect over a cup of tea in the courtyard. The house and garden are tucked away from the crowds and noise of the city, which is really unique and relaxing.

Théâtre Mogador

Théâtre Mogador is a 1600-seat hall that has welcomed productions such as Les Misérables, The Lion King, Mamma Mia!, Beauty and the Beast, Cats, and Grease. I saw a performance of The Lion King here in 2023, and it was wonderful! I had the opportunity to purchase a special ticket to see sound check before the show and go backstage afterwards. My ticket also included a nice goodie bag of merchandise from the musical, so I highly recommend this unique experience!